Tulum
Tulum’s greatest attraction is its location. It stands on a bluff facing the rising sun looking out on views of the Caribbean that are nothing less than spectacular. In Maya, Tulum means “Wall”, and the city was christened thus because it is a walled city; one of the very few the ancients ever built. Research suggests it was formerly called Zama or “to dawn” in its day, which is appropriate given the location. It seems “Tulum” is the name given the site following a visit by the explorers Stephens and Catherwood in 1841, just before the beginning of the Caste War in 1847, long after the city was abandon and fell to ruins. They ordered trees cleared and Catherwood made illustrations of temples, later to be published in their famous book “Incidents of Travel in Yucatan”. Juan José Gálvez is actually credited with Tulum’s rediscovery in 1840.
History of the Site
The earliest date lifted from the site is A.D. 564 (the inscription on a stele) This places Tulum within the Classic period, though we know that its heyday was much later (1200 – 1521 A.D.) during the Late Post-classic period. Tulum was a major link in the Maya’s extensive trade network. Both maritime and land routes converged here. Artifacts found in or near the site testify to contacts that ranged from Central Mexico to Central America and every place in between: copper rattles and rings from the Mexican highlands; flint and ceramics from all over the Yucatán jade and obsidian from Guatemala and more. The first Europeans to see Tulum were probably Juan de Grijalva and his men as they sailed reconnaissance along the Eastern coast of Yucatán in 1518. The Spaniards later returned to conquer the Peninsula unwittingly bringing Old World diseases which decimated the native population. And so Tulum, like so many cities before it, was abandoned to the elements.
Principal Structures
When visitors arrive at Tulum’s ancient pre-hispanic site they are able to see the buildings that in its time were the city’s main center (ceremonial and political), monumentally encircled by the Mayan world’s best known wall. Around this wall, in an area that at the present time can’t be visited, there were a vast number of wooden and palm houses. Nowadays virtually no evidence of these houses exists.
City Square
The square at the center of the city was probably once used for rituals or ceremonies and is flanked by the so called Castillo (The Castle) to the West. The Castillo, sometimes referred to as the lighthouse, is the tallest building at Tulum and the most famous. It stands on the above mentioned bluff, commanding a view of the ocean and coast for miles in both directions. The structure underwent several stages of building and the lintels of its upper rooms are carved with the plumed serpent motif. The rooms themselves are vaulted in classic Mayan style.
Temple of the Descending God
This is another interesting structure. On the façade is a figure sculpted head down, and the walls inside show traces of the original pigments applied by the Maya. The descending figure is thought to represent a deity and Tulum appears to have been the center of his cult.
The Temple of the Initial Series
The Temple of the Initial Series façade bears several stucco figures and the earliest date found at Tulum came from a stele in the inner sanctum. Also important are the Temple of the Frescos which is filled with murals, now mostly erased by time and the elements. The temple shows traces of several building styles. The House of the Columns is more complex than most structures at the site and worth examining. It’s a palace-like structure with four rooms whose principal entrance faces South. Six columns support the roof of the main room and there’s also a roofed sanctuary. With the exception of its Eastern flank, which is open to the sea, Tulum is completely encircled by a low wall. Watchtowers rise from the 2 corners of its Western flank and within each tower is an altar. A tiny cove nestles at the foot of the cliffs, with its apron of snow white sand. This caleta was where the trading canoes would slip ashore.
The Kukulcán Group
Located just to the North of El Castillo, the Kukulcán Group, is formed by several minor structures. Being the most outstanding the Templo del Dios del Viento (Temple of the God of the Wind) is named after its round base. Traditionally related to Kukulcán is the God of the Wind Ehécatl from Central Mexico.
The Beach
It is appropriate to emphasize the importance of the beach area, where it is certain that the Mayan ships, dedicated to trade around the peninsula, would have docked. At the present time it is the most visited area of the archaeological site.
General Data
Being Quintana Roo’s most known and advertised site, Tulum is a must visit. The access fee is $35~40 pesos (video cameras extra $30 pesos) and the visit timetable is 8am to 5 pm, everyday. It is important to mention that it is necessary to park the your car at the shopping center’s parking lot (an extra $30 peso fee) when arriving through the main ruins entrance. This is not controled by the National Institute of Anthropology and History (INAH). The 1 km journey between the parking lot and the site’s entrance can be made by walking or in a small train (it’s not related with the INAH either), which access fee is +/-$10 pesos. The ancient Maya ruin of Tulum is a 2 hour drive from Cancun (130 km). There is easy access via Federal Highway 307 from Cancun to Tulum. It’s unofficially the southern end to the Riviera Maya. In Cancun there are several travel agencies that organize guided visits and the local bus lines offer regular service between Cancun and the site. The site has a parking lot, refreshments and restrooms located at the shopping center. Tickets are sold at the entrance to the ruins. Rustic economically priced lodging is available in the village of Tulum and along the coast South of Tulum, en route to Sian Ka’an. These range in price and quality, and many are built exclusively with regional materials. There is a registered guides association offering services at the ruins site.
Coba
Cobá translates from the Maya as “water stirred by the wind.” Surrounded by five lakes, this great city covered 70 square kilometers and grew into a powerful economic center controlling most of the region. It is considered to be the sister city to Tikal in Guatemala. At least 16 sacbé (white limestone roads) have been found, some connecting as far north as Chichén Itzá and as far south as Tikal. Cobá is famous for its massive temple-pyramids – Nohoch Mul at 138 feet is the tallest pyramid in the area. Discovered by Teobert Maler in 1891, Cobá was explored in 1926 by the Carnegie Institute but not excavated until 1972. Archaeologists estimate there are 6,500 structures in Cobá but only 5% have been uncovered. It will take decades to uncover the complete city. In the meantime, there are some impressive groupings to explore separated by several miles of dense jungle. It’s easy to get lost here, so stay on the main road and don’t be tempted by the narrow paths that lead off into the jungle unless you have a qualified guide with you. Don’t swim in any of the lakes unless you want to be a crocodile’s lunch.
The first major buildings are close to the entrance, just off the main path to your right. The Groupo Cobá (Cobá Group) is a series of pyramids built around a sunken patio. Facing the large plaza is the 22.5 meter (79-ft) high Iglesia (church) where offerings for a good harvest are still made by the locals. (Please don’t touch them). After climbing the steep stone steps you can see nearby Lake Macanxoc. Recently archaeologists found an ancient cache inside Iglesia filled with jade, pearls, shells and other offerings. Farther along the main path to your left is the Chumuc Mul (Stucco Pyramid) Group. Little of this area has been cleared but there are some vivid painted stucco motifs worth seeing.
If you continue on the path you reach the Nohoch Mul (Large Hill) Group, home to the pyramid of the same name. It is 12 stories high with 120 steps to the summit where you have a bird’s eye view of the whole jungle and can see the other ruins peeking through the trees. Waiting for you on top is a small temple decorated with a figure of the Descending God (also seen at Tulum). The largest of the 33-foot sacbé starts at the base of this pyramid. Since the Maya did not use beasts of burden or the wheel, it is thought that sacbé were made quite wide to accommodate the procession of people walking alongside one another as they transported goods from one city to the next.
Beyond the Nohoch Mul Group is El Castillo (the Castle), a structure with nine small chambers reached by a stairway. To the south are the remains of a ball court and the Conjunto Las Pinturas (the Picture Group), named for the stucco paintings that line the walls. Traces of the yellow, blue and red paint used can be seen in the uppermost corners. There is also an enormous stela (carved stone) showing a warrior dressed in his resplendent headdress standing on two of his captives.
Follow a secondary path one kilometer in the jungle to the Macanxoc Group (also called Group A) not far from the lake of the same name. Its main pyramid has a large stairway leading to the summit that is divided by a column. Inside are a molded lintel and the remains of a stucco painting. There are also a number of stelae here with intricately carved with symbols and dates of the history of Cobá. The most famous is Stela I with glyphs describing an important event that took place August 13, 314 BC. For the hardy adventurers, there is the small Kukulcán Group located 5.5 km south of the main entrance. Only five structures remain here and they are most puzzling, as their design doesn’t fit in with the rest of the area especially the three-story temple with its peculiar top story. A visit to Cobá involves a lot walking so bring plenty of bug repellent, and lots of water. Open daily from 8 AM – 5 PM. Admission: $3, additional $4 fee for video cameras. Free Sundays and holidays. Located on 35 minutes northwest of Tulum, 3 hours from Cancun.
Chichen Itza
The most popular of the Mayan Ruins, Chichen Itza is approximately 70 miles Northwest of Villa Gummerson. Chichen Itza is the largest and most well-known Mayan village, most famous for its pyramid with the 98 steps to heaven. Get there early to beat the crowds.
The ancient Mayan capital of Chichen Itza is an archaeological zone in the eastern region of the state of Yucatan. It lies 120 km (74 mi) east of Merida on Highway 180, in the direction of Cancun. The climate is hot and dry, with an average temperature of 34º C (93º F).
This place, declared a World Heritage Site by the UNESCO, will take you back in time to the pre-Hispanic era as you discover the secrets awaiting you in the most important structures. At El Castillo (also known as the of Pyramid of Kukulcan), a natural phenomenon occurs each year during the spring equinox: the sunlight creates a shadow image of a plumed serpent descending down the pyramid’s stairs. This unique experience draws hundreds of tourists from all over the world. Another important structure is the Juego de Pelota, the largest ball court in Mesoamerica. It measures 168 meters (554 feet) in length and 70 meters (231 feet) in width. There’s also the Observatorio (Observatory), or Caracol (Snail), called that because of the interior’s round spiral shape.
At Chichen Itza you can also visit the spectacular Cenote Sagrado, a large sinkhole that measures 60 meters (198 feet) in diameter. Many fantastic treasures have been found at the sinkhole: rings, necklaces, gold and jade objects, as well as the bones of young women that were thrown into the water as an offering to Chaac, the Mayan rain god.
Chichen Itza is an ideal destination, not only for those who enjoy archaeology, but also for those who like history and the charming allure of ancient civilizations.
Cozumel, MEXICO
